The Scotsman
Restaurant Review: Gillian Glover
… so following the foliage embedded fairy light trail down the steps to the French windows that form the restaurant’s front door offers the same glamour it did three years ago.
Just as pleasant the continuing low-key opulence was the discovery of a more lavish menu- the sort where you want to order almost everything. And just for the sake of perfect symmetry, I was accompanied by the same colleague who sampled the restaurant the first time round. And I just know the editor will not quibble about her return fares to Zanzibar. No price is too much for perfection- as I keep telling that tall person in accounts.
So we started fishily- seared scallops for me; sea bass with ratatouille and parmesan crackling for Ms Zanzibar. Both of these showed real panache and confidence, with every separate note and texture balanced, so that the silky scallops were yet saved from blandness by a stab of vinaigrette- spiked aubergine and fresh lime.
The same precision brought perfect, moist sea bass atop a rumbustious ratatouille, with a crunchy little Parmesan biscuit on te side (notes to Atkins dieters: grated Parmesan, piled into small heaps and then baked will result in a crunchy little lattice of melted cheese which hardens when cold to lo-carb biscuit heaven).
Ms Z stayed on the seashore for her main course too, grilled halibut with creamed leeks and asparagus while I tried the trio of duck roasted breast, confit and potato gateau, and a duck and truffle sausage. Of these three, the fanned, ruby tender breast was best. I swapped plates with Ms Zanzibar, who was suffering a moment of pink meat envy, and was instantly smitten by the halibut. Fresh as sea foam and lapped by a wonderfully sophisticated sauce of cream, wine and leeks shaved thin as newsprint. This was assured, top-of-the-league cooking.
The Stockbridge Restaurant is producing food of a standard that matches the paintings. The originals that is. Including my favourite- The Orange Blind: a painting that sums up the timeless allure of grand New Town drawing rooms as effectively as Gallagher has interpreted the best of Scottish produce.