Autumn in the Kitchen

By Head Chef & Proprietor Jason Gallagher

 

Deer has been hunted and eaten since people first developed tools sharp enough not only to kill the animals but also to ‘process’ them. Several centuries on, hunting turned into a sport for medieval Europe’s aristocracy. Scotland was no exception with some of the finest shooting estates in the world being established here. Hunting is still a popular pastime today, with Highland estates welcoming a wider range of visitors than ever before.

 

While game has always been part of the upper classes’ diet, its popularity with general consumers has grown only recently. Venison refers to all meat that comes from native deer species. In Scotland, the most common ones are red and roe deer. Sika and fallow deer are also found and, according to the Deer Commission for Scotland, muntjac deer have been spotted but official sightings haven’t been confirmed.

 

Stag on Highland EstateToday's wild deer population is mostly controlled by professional gamekeepers. At the same time, commercial deer farms have developed as this lean red meat has grown in popularity.

 

Venison served in restaurants is most likely from red deer. In fact, it’s the healthiest red meat available with a much lower fat and higher protein content than beef or pork, making it ideal for anyone watching their diet and especially their cholesterol levels. At the same time, it’s tasty so you don’t have to sacrifice flavour to watch your weight.

 

The meat’s flavour depends on whether it was raised in the wild or farmed. Wild venison usually has a more gamey flavour while farmed venison is generally milder. The time for which the meat has been hung also has an influence.

 

At the restaurant, we prefer farmed venison for its milder flavour and its versatility. There are numerous ways to prepare it from roasting the haunch or saddle cuts and pan-frying medallion steaks to stewing less tender cuts. These also make a fabulous (and healthy!) burger. 


 

Cooking venison doesn’t have to be challenging in spite of its low fat content. Venison steaks, for example, are best served pink, which keeps them nice and moist. Pan-fry or grill them like beef and leave to rest in a warm dish to complete the cooking while serving up the sauce and vegetables. As the juices are still in the meat, this quick way of cooking venison won’t give you much gravy so you may want to prepare a sauce separately. Claret, port, redcurrants and sloe berries all make great bases for a tasty sauce. If you prefer your meat well done, cook your venison slowly. You’ll also get delicious gravy that way. Lard it first and then cook it in a covered dish with some liquid and vegetables. Any fat used for larding can be skimmed off afterwards.

 

You can buy venison from butchers with a game licence, specialist retailers at farmers’ markets or directly from Scottish venison farmers. Give our casserole a try or, if the weather turns out to be good enough for a barbecue, have a venison burger!

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The Stockbridge Restaurant | 54 St Stephen Street, Edinburgh, EH3 5AL | 0131 226 6766